Wrapping up three weeks of vacation in Europe

They say all good things must come to an end, but I'm not sure.  The vacation is over, but the experience will truly last and bring me back again.  The last few days have been "unplanned" and you get what you plan for.  #1 thing to ask when reserving nice expansive hotels in Germany in July is "do you have air conditioning?".  It's above 85 outside and we have an otherwise nice hotel (that we reserved 3 weeks ago) and it does not have AC (and yes I feel like a spoiled American).  We drove along the Rhine and stopped in a few small towns and Wiesbaden, Germany on our path back to the airport in Frankfurt.  Part of me says it's time to go home and party of me would enjoy continuing the trip for a few more months.  Any way I look at it, I have been blessed with  a great travel companion, good friends, friendly strangers and the opportunity to see some spectacular parts of the world.  Now I think it's time to plan 2015, someplace out-west in the good old USA.

Driving to and walking in Amsterdam - Watch out for BIKES!

We made it to our last destination city and found our Hotel (on the outskirts of downtown).  Getting off the highway the first thing I noticed is bike-paths and bikes everywhere any attempt to turn requires you look for cars, bikes and pedestrians.  We got to the hotel about 1pm and they gave us an early checkin, so we bought a 24 hour transport pass (metro, tram & bus) and headed into town.  We made it near the Anne Frank house where the line was around the building and walked into town.  Bikes and people do not interact well here, the bikes seem to have right-of-way even at red lights (or they think so).  The city is split into 4 sets of "roads":  Tram/bus, cars, bikes and pedestrians.  Bikes don't seem to follow that so much and ride everywhere.  While walking across a street with a green "walk" light two bikes ran into the crowed, someone gabbed one of he bikers and stopped them, the other ran into someone and was yelled at. I'm all for bikers rights, but in Amsterdam they may have run amok.

We walked into Dam Square and saw thousands of people walking, talking, smoking (pot and tobacco) and had seen enough and walked on.  We made it through the red-light district and then decided to head out to the Van Gogh museum, after waiting in line for 20 minutes and about $20 per head to get in and well worth the effort and it was the first "public" bathroom we found (not that I mind buying coffee, but it's self defeating).  The museum was very crowded and pushy (one guy in front of me seemed more interested in the texts on his phone than the art).  The museum is 4 floors (0-3) and only has a few hundred paintings in it, but after 2 hours of lines and pushing, I'm glad Van Gogh died when he did, I don't think I could have handled another floor.  I would not recommend the "Small Plates" restaurant around the corner from the museum.  We headed back to our hotel and called it a night.

Day two we started with the Anne Frank museum, we arrived at 8:30 (it opens at 9) and stood in line for 90 minutes to get it (I really can't complain, it's not like I had to hide in an attic and then was sent to a Nazi death-camp).  Again a big crowed, but much more subdued and far less pushy (although there are always a few).  Reading her writings and walking the house is a very sobering experience that more people should have.  In so many ways I have truly lived a charmed and blessed life.

Our last experience was the boat tour of the canals, very worthwhile and relaxing, a very good overview of the city and it's history.  Then off to the hotel to make reservations for Thursday and a nice relaxing walk outside of the hustle of the city,

Driving in Europe and Brugge

After the Tour de France we stated in France a few miles from the boarder to Luxembourg.  I had read that gas is expensive in Belgium so I wanted to full up before the boarder, so before getting on the highway I looked for an open gas station on a Sunday.  Found lots of 24/7 automated stations that take Europe cards, but none would take one of my credit cards (but none eat my card so life is good).  On to the highway an the first gas station rest area in Luxembourg.  As you enter you must pick lanes for Credit or Cash.  I picked credit and again found the automated teller would not take my card.  So I tried to go around back to Cash, no luck, at the rest area you get one try.  Back in the car an off to the next rest area, tried Cash, they would not take credit, but I did fill my tank, so we would make our hotel without running out of gas.  We found our hotel about 3pm and it was nice.  We checked in and headed to downtown Brugge, thank God (and many engineers) for GPS systems.  After a few go arounds we mad it to the 't Zand parking garage under the bus yard.  We walked about 5 miles in town and took a horse and buggy ride around town, got dinner and a beer and headed back to the car-park.  I tried to pay again with my Visa and the machine ate the card.  I hit the Help button and heard Flemish, I tried my French "It has eaten my bank card" I heard laughter (my French or the way I said it) followed by "one moment please".  A man showed up and dissembled the machine and gave me my card back.  Note to self, don't try any automated teller in Belgium with a US Visa card.  Back to he hotel where the staff and guests were watching some game between Germany and Argentina, apparently it was important.  A good nights sleep and some week coffee and we were back in downtown Brugge (so far all coffee pales to France/Italy/Home).   We walked out to see the windmills on the opposite side of town, along the way we got coffee and it was good, strong and came with fudge, my constitution restored we walked to the windmills, Michelangelo's Madonna and Child, the Basilica of the Holy Blood and many other sights of the city.  I'm still made at Rick Steves, everyplace he recommends is crowded (Burgge was packed)!
 

Random thoughts on public toilets and "socialism"

We have been driving around Europe for about 14 days now and have been in Germany, France, Italy and Switzerland. I noticed the French toilets along the highway are free and the other countries charge around a $1.  This is one of the most un-american parts of Europe.  Below is a photo of a public toilet in Baccarat, France.  The urinals are out in the open and for 20cents you can use a toilet, this arrangement is common in much of Europe.

This may be "socialist" of me but what I noticed was that toilets are free and plentiful (France) allies don't always smell bad.  But where they are rare or expensive you don't want to walk in any shadowed area.  It seems like society is served by spending on public sanitation (I know this may be shocking to some of my tea-party friends).

The Tour de France - Baccarat

So we decided to spend a day seeing the Tour de France and it was coming near Strasbourg as we were leaving so we stopped in the crystal city of Baccarat at 11am and waited for the tour that would pass through about 2:40pm.  When we got their the crowds were light, but growing.  By 1pm the streets were lined for miles.  To our surprise and delight vehicles came through throwing prizes for about 30 minutes.  Hats, key-rings and other souvenirs.  We managed to catch our share.  Then the souvenir truck came through selling packages and I bought a tee-shirt, hat and bag (seemed only foreigners where buying).  Not much after that the lead pack came through and 7 minutes later the remainder.  It was very exciting even for someone like me who equates watching sports to paint drying (and in my book paint drying winds more than 50%).

Day 6 in Strasbourg - Walking with old friends

We spent our last day in Strasbourg walking around town with old friends.  More rain was predicted, so we needed sunscreen to keep from being burned too badly.  For lunch I had flammkuchen which is one my favorites, a thin crust like a pizza and a white sauce, onion and lardon (pork fat cubs) something I will have to make more of at home.  We wondered past a rebuilt building that was in ruins when we lived their.  We also stopped and took a photo at the school our friends sons went to.   A day of beautiful buildings, good food and great conversation, it was hard to be sad about leaving.

Day 5 in Strasbourg – No photos, more rain and old friends

We enjoyed he wine route so much Wednesday we decided to go back Thursday. We started in Barr and found that it has lost much of it's charm so we moved on to Ottrott which is very small yet nice. We walked around for 30 minutes and ran into a couple on a hiking trip, 10 miles a day between cites on the wine route, their luggage being transported between hotels. I'm storing this away for future trips... The couple told us about a nice street market in Oberni (a few miles down the road). So we headed out and arrived in time to see it close. So we had to walk around town and I decided on a tart linzer and coffee for lunch, what a great lunch! We spent an hour plus walking around and then headed back to our hotel about 5pm to get ready to see friends. Having been confused about the date, I also miss-read the time and caused another panic. No problems, we had an hour more to get ready than “planned”. We met our old friends and found out that their daughter was born the day we moved back from France to the US (11-July-1997). We had a great time, an stayed past midnight, sang happy birthday and their daughter received her presents. I am so blessed to have friends who will invite me into their home after being away for 17 years.  So after an all day rain, a few minute of sun the ride home was in a thunderstorm where it rained cats and dogs.  

The reason the French don't like Americans

The truth is the French have always been friendly, helpful and kind to me and my family. I have seen far more Americans in France and America being rude towards the French, so if you are having a problem, think about it...  

A quick view of driving around Strasbourg, France

This videos ends with with us pulling up to our old home in Fegersheim

Day 4 in Strasbourg - The wine route and utter panic!

We spent most of the day on Wednesday driving the the wine route (Rue des Vin – http://www.route-des-vins-alsace.com/fr). Twisty route that takes you through a series of medieval walled cites surrounded by vineyards. Our drive was slowed by a motorhome that was driving 30kph (20mph) regardless of the speed limit (often 90kph). Unable to pass him we we diced to stop at in Bergheim, not the most beautiful city, but nice. Somethings have not changed in 20 years, just as we entered the city there is a jam, jelly & honey seller on the corner. We had a nice walk around and saw the 11c walls and Renee had a jolt as a stray cat brushed her leg.

From Bergheim we moved on to Ribeauvillé and then Clos sainte Hune vineyard and the fortified church , followed by Riquwhihr and Kayserburg. Renee and I could spend a week just walking through the cites of the wine route, it's one beautiful surprise after another of buildings, vineyards, churches and food. The wine route has dedicated bike paths between the cities and would be perfect for a week long bike ride. When we arrived back to our hotel I checked an email form a friend and found that we were to meet Thursday, July 8 (July 8 is a Tuesday) and I went into a panic fearing he and his wife fixed a meal for us on Tuesday and we did not show. Much to my relief after a few emails I found that it was Thursday, July 10 and all was well.

Day 3 in Strasbourg - More rain, a new umbrella, a friend and 15th century wine

So far we have been rained on more days than not on this trip and Strasbourg is not any different (currently at 100%).  The day started with another great pastry and coffee and we waited for the rain to lighten a bit.  We then headed into town and purchased a new umbrella (we only brought one) and while Renee was shopping I visited the church Saint Pierre Le Jeune (10c through 15c).  We then met our old French professor and had a nice lunch and conversation outside at a restaurant (under an umbrella to keep us dry) in place kleber.  She told us of a cave under the hospital that as cask of wine from 1472, so off we went.  Renee then did some shopping and I wounded the city with my camera.

Day 2 in Strasbourg - Renee's Birthday and Bill's difficult choice

We are staying in an "Apartment" hotel in Strasbourg (much like what our son manages) and breakfast is not included (nor desired). So my first day I went out looking for a place to buy breakfast and I found an artisanal baker that has great pastries, but does not offer coffee.  So I had to choose between good coffee and OK pastries and great pastries and coffee in my room (the coffee I made was good).  We then walked into town for a bit of sightseeing and came back to the hotel and Renee called some friends.  The "old" plan was thrown out and we were invited for dinner.  So we had a few hours to kill so we drove by our old house and Renee said hello to our old neighbor. To our shock she invited us in (when we were neighbors something about rich, fat Americans was said), We had a great visit and enjoyed it immensely, I even understood half of what was said. We then stopped for a coffee and tea and a short walk and realized we would be later for our dinner date if went back to the hotel. So we found wine and flowers and headed to our friends. Great conversation and a nice meal capped the perfect first day.

Drive through Italy and Switzerland to Strasbourg

We departed Turin about 9:30 in the morning after another great Italian breakfast (great coffee, pastries, yogurt, fresh fruit and coffee). We headed north out of Turin and onto the Highway system, the Italians have been building roads since roman times and their experience shows, I which Michigan roads in such good repair. We departed the main highway a few miles outside of Switzerland and drove into the mountains. The reward for hard driving was spectacular views in all directions and some fun switchbacks to drive. At the board to Switzerland we purchased the 35 Euro highway sticker required to drive on the highways in Switzerland, and then a few yards later (or should I say meters) we had to pay a 20 euro toll to drive a tunnel. We stopped at a rest area and Renee promptly disappeared while I was pumping gas. 20 minutes later after checking all the stalls in both bathrooms I founder her 100 meters away in a "market". I may not have correctly expressed my gratitude for finding her safe. The rest of the drive was uneventful and we arrived in Strasbourg about 5pm. We found the hotel and took a walk into town and ate dinner. Just as we were paying the bill the sky changed and we headed back towards our hotel. We made it about halfway when the sky opened up. We waited fr the downpour to end in the shelter of the Hotel du ville. Where Renee struck up a conversation with a French couple also caught in the rain. I nice conversation and 30 minutes of waiting and the rain was down to a light trickle and we walked to our hotel.

Turin - The Shroud, Sacra di San Michele, and dinner

Brian showed up at our hotel about 10am and walked us to their apartment and reminded us of the city-three-step required to dodge dog droppings.  He then gave us a tour of his apartment and we said hello to his wife and 3 wonderful children.  We then headed to a duomo and saw the a copy of the Shroud of Turin and then saw the box that contains the actual shroud.  Renee had heard that it will be on display sometime in 2015.  After that we stopped by the largest street market in Italy and I bought a hat.  We also walked through the fish market, pungent, but beautiful with dozens and dozens of verities of fresh fish and sea food.  Lunch was a quick stop at a donar kabab place and then we Brian drove all of us to Sacra di San Michele a few miles outside the city.  I am glad Brian was driving, city traffic followed by miles of 1.5 lane wide switchbacks with two way traffic.  The reward was an 11th century abbey and spectacular views of the city.  We then headed back to he city for dinner.  It was great to see Bran again and is wife and lovely children (they have been in Italy on an international assignment for a year and are doing great). It was great to have such a lovely family show us around Turin.
  

Annecy France to Turin Italy - Please pay toll

We left Annecy in the morning and drove around part of the lake, giving us a close up view of the villages we saw during the boat ride. At one point they were distinct villages, but with growth they have merged into a continues string of houses. I would have loved to bike the lake, the area we drove had a dedicated bike bath. As the road left the lake it became hairpin turns and switchbacks up the mountains. It was clear to me who the real bikers were, the road had a %5 grade for miles and some of the bikers were maintaining a good pace. Abut 30k outside of Annecy we left the bikers behind and picked up a French toll road, well maintained, 81mph speed-limit and many tunnels instead of switchbacks and $40 in tolls. The weather once again turned from nice to high winds and sudden downpours. One of the tunnels took us under Mt Blanc for a mere toll of $60. From the tunnel it was a short drive to Italy and Turin Italy. To my surprise and confusion many of the main roads in Turin have side “alleyways” which have parking and are used for left and right turns. Not sure just how many traffic laws I violated, but watching the locals I was in good company. Once we made it safely to our hotel we met up with a friend and co-worker for a short walk around Turin and dinner. Many of the roads have covered sidewalks so even with the rain walking was nice.

Annecy France, Day 2

We had a full day to walking around Annecy and took the boat tour around the lake. The day started with my normal pastry and café au lait search. The boat tour was in French and “English”, but both Renee and I understood more of the French (but his English was still better than my French). We then hiked up to the castle and walked the entire old town. Many richly colored buildings in the old town make for beautiful views as you as you turn corners. We then stopped back at the hotel and headed to a bookstore and Renee was lost for an hour (and could have stayed for the day), and I may managed to seek in an espresso or two while she was looking at French books.

Annecy France, Day 1

The drive from Besancon to Annecy was rainy and mostly uneventful.  The scenery along the route is beautiful, but with rain and driving at 80+mph I did not get to see much we also past through many tunnels some over 2 miles long.  We arrived in Annecy to a maze of one-way streets, the GPS was worth every penny!  We checked into Hotel Alexandra and it's nice, friendly and clean and about the size of a bed.  Ou car is parked 200 yards away.  We arrived about 3pm and have been walking around since.  We stopped for dinner at a pizzeria and it was good, we walked a few more miles and no it's time to unwind and have a last wine for the day.

Drive day - from Rothenburg, Germany to Besancon France

So today was the start of driving to Annecy France, we put in about 500k of driving (300+ miles) with many short stops along the way.  We stopped in Baden Baden for a few supplies and a short walk around the town.  We visited Stiftskirche Church and saw a 15c crucifix  
 
The drive was through part of the black forest and it brought back many memories from our life here.  We then crossed the border into France and it still has a "going home" feeling to it.  We hit a gas station for a bathroom break and coffee to help me make the trip.  We got stuck looking at books, food and other "essentials of life", even the French gas stations have more educational material than most stores in the US.  We then checked out or Ibis hotel (small, clean and friendly staff and not much else to say about it) and then headed into Besancon (a 6 mile drive).  About 2 hours later still looking for a place to part and a restaurant I decided I had enough of one ways that are 6 feet wide (about 2 inches more than the car).  We stopped at a grocery store and had a dinner and purchased supplies and were back to the hotel before 10pm.  I enjoyed mot of the day, but I am looking forward to less driving and more sight-seeing.